Tuesday, October 19, 2010

Halloween... Kind Of

I just had to write and to say that I have the nicest au pair family ever! I had my first French test today, and this morning the mum wished me luck several times, the dad text me to ask how it went, and when I came home the grandma said "bravo" and I felt like a little kid who has just done something really well, rather than simply have taken a test.

The children have holidays soon, hence the grandma staying, as she is taking them to stay with her at the end of the week for the duration of the vacation. It's actually pretty good to have some help! Tomorrow will be our "Halloween day", carving pumpkins and making arts and crafts and hopefully a yummy Halloween cake. Strange though, due to the Catholic nature of France, they don't celebrate Halloween and instead focus on the significance of All Saint's Day on the 1st of November, which they use to honour and respect the dead. Very much in a direct clash with Halloween, which admittedly is full of consumerist values... but don't you remember being a kid and how fun it was, dressing up and going out into the frosty night to knock on people's doors to get handfuls of sweets, and then coming back and sitting in the warmth and tipping the whole lot out so you could see how much you've earned dressed as a witch/ghost/vampire etc. Well with les enfants we are going to catch a glimpse of why Halloween is fun, as it's all new to them (no trick or treating though!).

That is all, was just a quick small update! 

Sunday, October 17, 2010

Bonjour,

It's late Sunday afternoon, and freezing outside! Part of me is looking forward to Christmas time in Paris, but mostly the cold means that spending my spare time wandering through Parisian streets and Jardin du Luxembourg etc is becoming limited. Soon all there will be to do is shop hehe!

Friday evening some friends and I decided to try out a bar called Panic Room in the Marais. It was recommended in my guide book which has so far proved trustworthy. Although I had a good night, the bar was different to what I was expected, although I'm not too sure exactly what is was that I was expecting! How was it different? Well first of all the majority of the crowd (and it certainly was what you'd call jampacked) undoubtedly belonged to the gay community, and was male. Being three straight girls, we felt somewhat out of place. During my trip to the toilet I witnessed the beginnings of flirtations between the handsome, chisselled French men behind me, and at one point one of them turned to me and, in French, said what I guess to be something along the lines of "I think I'm in luck, he's gorgeous" to which I could only smile and nod.

But what disappointed me was the price of the cocktails, at 8 euros 50 each it wasn't what I'd call cheap. I ordered a mohito and whilst the barman was very nice and patient with my petit French, the one I had in Andy Whaloo at 10 euros was much, much nicer. I stuck to beers after that.

Saturday evening we treated ourselves to dinner in Paris at a Sushi restaurant by the Pyramides metro. I think it was called Sushi Shop and it was pretty good. The atmosphere was upmarket and relaxed, and the prices weren't too bad. Afterwards we took the metro to Invalides and walked towards the Eiffel Tower, arriving in time for the lights to sparkle wonderfully. After munching on yummy French crepes, we decided to spend some time in the gardens by the tower. This was a mistake, if ever there were was a place to find French chavs, this would be it. We eventually left the area and, as it was tres foid, went home without taking the night bus for once.

This morning I attended a classical music concert at the Salle Pleyel in Ternes with the family. The concert was short (1 hour) and intended for children, with frequent explanations and interruptions. I enjoyed it a lot, although the children weren't quite as convinced! Afterwards I visited my Aunt and Uncle and we had a lovely French lunch complete with wine, cheese, coffee and dessert. 

As you can see I've had a lovely weekend, here's to a good week!

Nathalie xx

Thursday, October 14, 2010

Un verre du vin est parfait pour le soir

So I sit here, sipping a glass of golden French wine (a Muscat, if you're interested) and everything seems alright again. Don't get me wrong, I love it here, the family is great, I've met lots of great different people blah blah blah. But sometimes things get a bit much.

I turned down the offer of going out for drinks with some friends in Le Vesinet for various reasons:

a) I'm currently a massive bore and feel much more safe in my pjs inside the comfort and warmth, and the thought of trudging outside and bracing the cold is daunting. In short; I am tired.

b) Money is always an issue and whilst I'm able to convince myself that the 25 euros spent on a blazor from the new H&M on the Champs Elysées was necessary, I am in fact actually very poor (and I intend to go out tomorrow night, and the night after that).

c) Although the life of an au pair is overall almost as good as it gets (no bills, food in the fridge, somewhere to live in Paris of all places, and a reasonable income), children are HARD WORK. My patience levels have been stretched a considerable amount and I don't think that any adult could faze me after 6 weeks of attempting to reason with the mini-people. I need some time to myself to hear myself think.

Anyway, moving swiftly on...

I am beginning to live for the weekend. At the weekend I can sleep, plan my own time and as mentioned, go out without worrying about getting up in time the next morning.

Did I tell you that there is a fabulous bar by the Odeon metro? It's called Le Bar Dix, and if you venture down the admittedly dangeriously small, steep and crumbling stairs into what should be the cellar, you will find a small but vibrant room lit by candlelight, with picturesque French mirrors and old film posters. The waiter (it is always the same one, and there is only ever one of course) is old, with a dramatically receding hairline and spectacles which frequently slip to the end of his nose. Do not be fooled though, he is quintessentially French: he is impatient, so much so that it verges on rude, speaks not a word of English and slams down your jug of sangria before demanding money and then flying off again. It's brilliant, the lack of English is refreshing and the apparent rudeness is mere normality for France. I highly recommend it.
Le 10 Bar, 10 rue de Odéon 75006 Paris



A demain, peut-etre

Monday, October 11, 2010

Some things that I love about Paris so far...

Here goes, a list of the things that are oh so Parisian and oh so adorable:

1) French people really do love their bread and cheese. It is deemed unacceptable to eat any kind of cheese with a bread that is not a baguette, unless of course it is a Croque Monsieur but that's another story. And I can see why, baguettes here cost on average 1 euro and are delicious! It is also not uncommon for French people to ride their bicycles through Paris and Le Vesinet with some baguettes peeping over their front basket which is très picturesque. I have no idea how they are so thin!

2) Live music on the RER/Metro. Now sometimes, particularly when recovering from a hangover or if the music is just terrible, this can be a nightmare. But mostly, it is lovely. Real Parisian music brightens the outdated interior of any metro. The awkward part comes when they ask for money and no-one makes eye contact or acknowledges them. I tend to smile in appreciation (I have yet to part with my money, you might say I'm being stingy, I say I'm waiting for the musician that really blows me away).

3) Parisian Cafés - bizarrely chic places where indulging on un verre du vin at 11am is considered normal, even necessary. If you're not ordering wine or coffee, you are obviously in the wrong place. By the by, as a friend and I were advised by a rather impertinent older French couple, young ladies are to drink white wine during the day and red wine pour la nuit. It's all about apearances you see.

4) Fashion (aka appearances). I like shopping. A lot. But Paris takes the experience of shopping to a whole new level. Place de la Concorde is a good place to nose around for the latest designer trends, most notably Chanel. J'adore Chanel! Mais malheuresment c'est trop chér pour moi! Window shopping is definately recommended. And then there are the huge department stores: Le Printemps, Galeries Lafayettes, Chatelet Les Halles. For me, the most influential fashion is that of the Parisian woman. Not the one dressed in head to toe in Louis Vuitton, but the tall slender dark-haired woman with the incredibly simple but exquisitely tailored wardrobe. Parisian chic: no bold prints, simple block colours, good cuts, classic handbags and impeccable shoes. Voila! Even the men always have good shoes.

5) Paris is a romantic city. In more than just the obvious couples smooching kind of way. Granted there are excessive amounts of tourists in some of the best places, with tacky and overpriced shops to accommodate them. But if you walk down the right side street, if you let yourself wander without hurry or fear of getting lost, you will see glimpses of the real Paris. Take Notre Dame for example. She is beautiful, without doubt, but wander a little and you will find yourself in the Latin Quarter, in parts of Paris that are not so concerned with appearances but contain character and something other; something that has attracted generations of writers, poets, artists and the like. It is easy to forget that this version of Paris exists, but once in it I know exactly why I'm here.
I don't have long to write this as must pick the kids up from school soon. French lessons are still going well although when I'm tired I really struggle to understand a word. Tomorrow will be host to yet another French strike - in this case a national strike affecting many aspects of day to day life, in protest against the government's plans to alter the retirement age.

 Hopefully the biggest problem I will have is with transport to and from my French school in St Germain des Prés. Trains are still running but slower than usual. Worst case scenario: the childrens' school is on strike and I have them for the entire day, but I don't think that will happen.

I went along to the WHSmith on Rue de Rivoli on my way back home today. Yes I know it's cheating but a good bookstore is a good bookstore regardless. I also discovered that they sell many bilingual books (English and French) which maybe when my French improves I will be able to read. And that they sell very overpriced but genuine English goodies - mostly consisting of unhealthy treats such as hobknobs, walkers crisps etc etc. They do also sell real English tea. I resisted the urge to buy any of these as a) French food is much nicer and b) the prices are extremely farfetched. But it's good to know that when I'm feeling homesick I can find a taste of home there.
The thing I did buy was George Orwell's Down and Out in Paris and London, which Elle recently recommended to me and I shockingly have not yet read. Still reading Victor Hugo's The Hunchback of Notre Dame at the moment which by the way is fantastic, but will work on Orwell after.

Speaking of which, the exposition of poverty in Paris is somewhat shocking to me; having lived in many places but currently calling Kent home, I am not used to witnessing poverty so explicitly. There are beggar children which hop on and off the metro, holding out their hands as they plead for sympathy (and what good is sympathy without a little money), and women with small babies doing the same. Homeless people, almost always male, slumber in metro stations at all times of day. The contrast between this, and the luxurious designer clad Parisians, covered from head to toe in such luxury that one is never too far from Chanel, or Louis Vuitton, or Versace... , is odd and as I belong in neither category, makes me feel quite lost at times. It is uncomfortable to be constantly reminded of the extremes of society.

On a more amusing note, crazy people also roam the metro. And I mean crazy, although I have to admit I don't understand a word of their ramblings but that is probably a good thing. Someone once told me that there is a French law against being admitted into mental asylums without the explicit voluntary action of the person in question, and thus these people are free to rudely interrupt us 'normal' people. I have observed the Parisians and gathered that the best way to deal with them is to make firm but dismissive eye contact and then look away. Maybe you think that's harsh; then you obviously have never used the metro in Paris.

Must go and pick the little terrors (I jest, sort of) up from school, will again write soon. 

Sunday, October 10, 2010

Bon Soir,

Having chosen to begin a blog for the first time, and having been in Paris for 6 weeks and counting, it seems like forever since I moved here and things that seemed so new and odd to me are no longer quite so foreign. However, I'm constantly exploring and experiencing the French way of life and so will continue to post my impressions of them on here. It also has to be said that there are some things a non-Frenchie will always find strange. I will elaborate where appropriate.

Paris is beautiful. It truly was built to fall in love with. Working as an au pair allows me to travel in and out of Paris with a home to come back to. And a French home at that, which is oh so different to English life. They are also very healthy; everything is in moderation, but they enjoy life and adore their children which is great to see.

Being under 26 grants me free access to many expensive places in Paris, such as Le Louvre and St Madeleine. On an Au Pair's budget this is extremely useful! Walking along Rue de Rivoli is also free although it tends to leave one with a certain longing for a ridiculous financial income which quickly evaporates when leaving the area and remembering that Paris has also been home to some of the most radical political and literary revolutions fighting against the exclusive bourgoisie depicted there. I love both sides of Paris, although I have to admit I love the poet's version better!

Today I stayed in Le Vesinet, recovering from the events of last night and embarked on a two hour bike ride avec mon ami Stephanie. Elle est au pair aussi. We rode along the river Seine and it was beautiful, the sun was shining and reflected itself fantastically on the river, and the path was long but relatively easy going. Apparently Claude Monet sat by the river here whilst creating some of his most famous paintings. Pretty savvy; hey?

It's getting pretty late and I have French homework to do, le professeur will be very angry if I don't do it hehe so I better go, I will write again tomorrow with a bit more detail of things I've done so far.

Bonne Nuit xx