Monday, May 30, 2011

How to get Something for Nothing

Welcome to what I can assume is my last post of the month! I technically only have one month left here, but will be staying a little longer as Paris has proven too seductive for me to leave her just yet.

Due to working a lot recently, I've been feeling tired, but the weekend I've just had has left a huge smile on my face. I'm very, very poor at the moment but the things we did hardly cost me anything (they would have been completely free were it not for the need of alcohol and food). We had a picnic (with wine and beer, bien sur) by St Martin's Canal yesterday and the weather was beautiful and the company was brilliant. We couldn't have asked for anything more. But more we did get: we walked from the canal in the 19th arrondissement (the canal is home to many bar boats and there are always many people and activities at this time of year) to the Parc de la Villette, to enjoy the free music there held as part of the "Villette Sonique", which lasts until the 1st June. Parc de la Villette is full of post-modernist architecture and is home to the Parisian iMax (seen as a big bubble in the photo below). It was designed and built in the 1980s as an open space to be used for art, exhibitions, music and other such engaging activities.


I'm not going to lie to you - the music was atrocious (it consisted of angry yelling and mismatched instrumentals, all deemed to convey some sort of message of what I can only assume was teenage angst, although the singer seemed to be in his 50s), but it was free, and the atmosphere was energetic, cheerful and 100% summer. Pure bliss. Drink prices also weren't too unreasonable, the usual 5 euros per pint (you think that's alot? For Paris it really is the norm, another reason I'm looking forward to being home).

Today after a shockingly difficult French lesson - my diploma exam is next week - I happily went along to a current exhibition at the Pompidou centre. The exhibition, entitled the "Inside Out" project, consists of a huge photo booth which after taking your picture spits it out from a great height in a terrifyingly large black and white image of yourself. Every pore becomes visible and as such open to criticism. The idea of the project is much less vain, and encourages you to take the poster and, having put it up in a place of importance/significance to you, to take a photo and send it to them so that they might construct a definition of identity. Or so I understood in any case. My picture is indeed terrifying and I will be doing nothing of the sort but it's a good souvenir and in theory the project could work. The entire project had an Indian theme (the image places a Bindi in the middle of your forehead), although it was not made clear why, and neither is it particularly obvious on the website. It didn't cost a penny, however.


That's it for now. Bonne Soiree xxx

Friday, May 20, 2011

Midnight in Paris

Ah, Paris - an inspirational city for many, and in particular Woody Allen it would seem. I went to see his new film, a hit in the recent Cannes film festival, fully expecting to love it (due to my love of Paris, not Allen). And love it I did. It was of course un petit peu previsible (predictable) but the shots of Paris were breathtaking and Owen Wilson did well as the inspired writer who loses his way and is tied down by a witch of a fiance (Rachel McAdams) and eventually refinds his mojo in the arms of the city (and her many beautiful women). The story is like I said: predictable, but oh so delicious. Against all odds Wilson finds himself in Paris in the Roaring Twenties, surrounded by the likes of Scott Fitzgerald, Ernest Hemingway, Salvador Dali and Gertrude Stein, to name but a few. It is in short, any young writer's dream.

Although sold as a romcom, it is refreshing to see that McAdams and Wilson make an appallingly ill-suited couple and all is not well in the land of the spoilt and wealthy. Wilson's interest in other women is a factor of the film but not it's main focus - that is centred on Paris of course. Allen succeeds in many a name-dropping (Wilson's love rival teaches at the Sorbonne, they go drinking in Montmartre, Hemingway is found staring down the nose of a red wine bottle at all times) which made it fun for us as we are now well-acquainted with many of the city's hotspots. If you're reading this, go and watch the film! You will see why I'm here, and maybe even be inspired to come here yourself.

My only criticism is as follows: I've yet to walk through the streets of Paris after midnight and encounter anyone other than drunken people or bums, never mind Dali or Hemingway. Maybe I'm just not doing it right...?

Bisous xxx

Europe's Oldest Science Museum... Just Too Old?

I recently visited the Arts et Metiers (Arts and Trades) museum in the 3rd arrondissement. As Europe's oldest science museum, it had quite an appeal! Having now been, I have to admit that it was certainly old, although I think this was more of a fault than an advantage. I think around 3,000 objects are on display, ranging from scientific instruments and construction to energy and transportation. Don't get me wrong, the objects themselves as individuals were for the most part rather interesting, but to force them together in an organised jumble in large rooms killed any inspiration they may have given. Have you ever been to the Natural History Museum in London, or the Science Museum? There you can interact with fascinating objects, and come face to face with dinosaurs (call me shallow but the dinosaurs were definitely missing here). I wish we could have interacted with something in this museum, apparently it was renovated in the year 2000 but they must have missed the memo!

As you can see however, the stop is interesting and demands attention when passing through on the metro. Luckily, the museum was once again free for those aged under 26 (there's no point staying in Paris once you've reach the ripened old age of 26 I'm afraid, everything will cost you a fortune). Upon first entering, we appeared to be the only ones there which I suppose was due to it being a weekday and the time of day. Not much later, we were bombarded by huge groups of school children and decided to scarper, so maybe I missed something - like the interesting parts? I fear my evaluation of the Arts et Metiers may be overly harsh, so I will tell you that you can find a scale model of the Statue of Liberty and many curious objects such as early models of typewriters, carriages and planes.

I suppose there's no harm in taking a look around if you're in the area, just be aware that you'll be hard pressed to make a day of it! I'll be heading to the Dali museum in the near future and will hopefully be able to give an altogether more rose-tinted account of that.

A bientot xxx

Tuesday, May 17, 2011

An emotional post that has absolutely nothing to do with Paris

Sometimes, there are moments in life when things happen that you can't control, or that you just don't want to believe. When these things happen (and they are inevitable), the way you react to them can define who you are. Now, I know I'm only 23 but that's long enough in this world to realise that. I'd also like to reassure you that it's nothing major that has happened to me, that myself and those I love are fine, my host family is still lovely and I'm still loving Paris, and I'm very lucky to have all that. I won't go into detail on what it is that's happened as this is after all a website which anyone can read, but suffice it to say that things are changing and for once I don't really feel in control anymore.

My day to day life here is focused a lot on responsibility - I'm in charge of two small beings who depend on me, and it can be emotional. Working with children is draining. I know I'm a good au pair, I praise them often, push them hard into being the best they can be, make sure they've got everything they need when they're in my care, support them, help them learn and interact with them during games and sports and playtime. And over my time here I've come to really care for those kids and I wish them the best in life.

So I'm sad that it's all coming to an end soon (but whoever said that an ending was a new beginning in disguise was a wiseman indeed), although I know the next phase of my life is beginning and is exciting. I'm sad that the genuine, be-there-for-you-no-matter-what friends I have made are going to be my penpals for the foreseeable future (although I AM roadtripping through California somewhere in that future). And now I'm sad because of the mysterious (to you, in any case) thing that has happened. I feel sad and drained and even slightly unable to cope. Then I remember who I am - I'm Nathalie Jane Flaxington, I can cope with anything, right? Right. Just now it doesn't feel that way.

I have to remind myself that these things are inevitable, and that it isn't the end of the world. I'll let you in on a little secret - when the Spicegirls split up, I was so upset my parents were worried about my mental state to the extent that they bought me a pet hamster in the hope that its gain would aid in my loss of Ginger. I may only have been 10 years old, and a pet hamster may not make things better this time, but they will get better.

Over and out xxx

Sunday, May 15, 2011

Stuck on where to go?

If you're looking for somewhere nice in Paris to enjoy a fancy cocktail or two, there are an abundance of places dying to take your money. However, knowing a good place from a bad one and parting with your money only for real quality and atmosphere can be tough. The 6th arrondissment boasts home to famous pioneers of Left Bank society and history through places such as Cafe de Flore. The trendy and overpriced (but delightfully Parisian) cafe is open and as such busy at all times of day and night. They do a splendid champagne house cocktail, but you will certainly be paying dearly for the honour of perching your derriere where the likes of Simone de Beauvoir once sat.

If on the other hand you'd like somewhere a bit more low key and less in your face touristy, there is a cocktail bar a 2 minute walk away from the Jardin du Luxembourg that goes by the name of Le Crocodile. Here you will find a choice of 312 cocktails, each of which can be bought for the reasonable sum of 6 euros during Happy Hour. I would recommend the Don de Ciel (literally translated as a "godsend"), which is once again champagne based. Trendy places such as the Panic Room in the Marais, and believe it or not the Irish bar named Hideout located by Chatelet, offer welcoming atmospheres and drinks at reasonable prices.

Speaking of things to do in Paris, if you'd like to spend a night at the cinema but don't fancy paying the 9 euro something fee per film, the cinema Gaumont Gobelins in the 13th arrondissement is a tempting 4 euros for those aged under 26.

There you have it, my helpful array of tips is on halt until the next time! I hope you've all had a wonderful weekend.

Bonne Nuit xxx

Monday, May 9, 2011

Bois de Boulogne

Salut,

I've had another great weekend in Paris; despite working most of the Saturday I managed to get out in time for evening drinks under the Pont des Arts bridge by Louvre Rivoli, meeting a host of other au pairs from various countries. It was nice to use my English and German (in which I am equally fluent) and French (in which I still struggle but for the most part am able to hold decent conversation, and the gin helped), it made for a very multi-cultural crowd. It was amazing that there were so many people, hundreds even, sat all along the Seine on a Saturday night drinking and chatting and that the atmosphere was so warm and welcoming. Sure, there was the odd drunken beggar trying his luck for free cigarrettes and beer but they were harmless.

Sunday I ventured to the Bois de Boulogne for the first time. The huge park is in the 16th arrondissement and we made it our mission to find the Lac Inferieur for some boat-rowing in the sunshine. I underestimated exactly how large the "park" is; it contains multiple lakes and even an amusement park which goes by the name of Jardin d'Acclimatation. The park technically spreads out onto the outskirts of Paris, which should give you an idea of its size, and is even home to the famous racecourse Longchamp from which the French designer bag label takes its name.


It all looks very idyllic, doesn't it? It feels it too, when walking along sandy paths surrounded by tall trees and enveloped by families on bike rides and general days out. But don't be fooled: apparently the park is home to one of the largest areas of prostitution in Paris, and it's actually not too hard to see why. It is large enough to permit people to go undetected within its many forests and there are no gates to close it at night.

As we began our trek back (we must have walked a total of hours throughout the day, but it was worth it) it was starting to get later and we noticed a distinct increase of lone men walking around which seemed odd until the knowledge of the park's notoriety clicked in. There are also unexplained markings on seemingly random trees. So there you have it, two sides of the same coin or however you want to put it, the park incorporates an amusing distinction between night and day. The rowing itself was fun aplenty, although I did manage to look like a complete idiot attempting not to crash into trees and such things, but very fun nonetheless. It cost 10 euros for the hour, and afterwards we sat on the grass in the sunshine enjoying well deserved beers and ice creams.

If I haven't said it before, this is the life!

A bientot xxx

Sunday, May 1, 2011

Centre Pompidou

Just a quick note on what I have decided is my favourite museum in Paris so far. The Centre Georges Pompidou is a museum of modern art in all shapes and forms (architecture, design, cinema etc) and as such offers a wide variety of art. There are often exhibitions but the museum itself is free for under 26s so I stuck to that part, which occupies two floors of the centre.

The first floor is comprised of art from 1905 to the sixties and is accordingly home to more traditional aspects of art, as well as cubism and surrealism and artists such as Picasso. A favourite of mine was this 1927 painting by Christian Schad, which presents a male with his companions of the night, including a famous transvestite, on a Montmartre background.
It's then quite refreshing to look around the second floor, which spans from 1960 to the present day and includes Andy Warhol's gorgeous photography of the legend that is Elizabeth Taylor.

Unlike many museums which tend to be a bit stuffy and offer an often mundane selection of similar paintings hung on similar-looking walls, the Centre Pompidou keeps you guessing, offering a variety of bizarre looking objects. Although not everything in the Pompidou was by any means pleasing or exciting, many things were and it was fun to walk around. It also helped that we were quite high up and that the glass walls offered fantastic views of Paris around us. Confused by what I mean by bizarre looking objects? Well there was...

A strange, Alice in Wonderland-esque mushroom.

Dizzy-inspiring paintings: if you look at it for long enough your eyes begin to go cross-eyed.

<---- I'm lost for words on this one.

Thusly you can see that many objects are odd (and maybe even slightly infantile?) but nonetheless amusing and at times thought-provoking. The museum is located in the marais quarter not far from the Hotel de Ville. The large square in front of the museum, the place du pompidou, is filled with street entertainers, tourists and local Frenchies enjoying the sunshine. Voila, perfect for an entertaining and cost-free few hours to spend in Paris, followed by a walk to Rue de Rosiers for a falafel and maybe a cheeky drink or two at La Perle. Bonne Nuit xxx

A small observation on how to (not) get ripped off in Paris.

Bonsoir,

Yesterday I had the oppportunity of showing next year's potential au pair around (who happens to be a friend of mine from England) in Le Vesinet with my host family, and taking her to Paris in the evening. Faced with a wide choice of where to go and somewhat short on time, I opted for the Place du Tertre which boasts a fabulous view of the Sacre Coeur and is a main bustling square of Montmartre, complete with creperies, restaurants, bars, shops and wandering artists. The museum of Salvador Dali is a mere few steps away from the Place du Tertre but unfortunately for me is closed until 2012 due to refurbishment... but I digress.

My friend was surprised at the hilly landscape of Montmartre and the many steps we took to get there, but this after all is its beauty and the view over Paris is like no other. We partook in some vin rouge at one bar, then meeting my Parisian friends at a bar right in the middle of the Place du Tertre. I can't remember the name of it but I can tell you NEVER to go there. Sure, the view was nice, the waiters were dressed in cheesy Parisian attire complete with berets and there was live music, but the bill added a bittersweet edge to the evening. I tried a Kir for the first time, and it was delicious (a Kir is a French cocktail consisting of creme de cassis, otherwise known as blackcurrant liqueur, topped up with white wine), but it cost me a pretty penny. It was 10 euros. And the beers my friends ordered cost the same. The bill came up to a total of over 40 euros for the 4 of us for one run of the mill (it wasn't champagne!) drink each. Oddly enough, the week before I had eaten at the Place du Tertre at a restaurant called Chez Eugene, and the prices there were reasonable, about 12 euros per meal. My advice: ALWAYS ask for the menu (la carte) before ordering.

Nonetheless it was a lovely relaxed evening, and Sacre Coeur is beautiful at night as you can see for yourself, although at a certain time of night a host of drunken idiots appear spluttering words like "charmant, les filles!" at you whilst holding broken and almost-empty bottles of whisky. Mais alors, c'est Paris!

A bientot xxx