Monday, September 12, 2011

Hello All,

It's been a long time since I've written, and I am now back in England! Here are some memories from my last couple of weeks in the city of love:

1) I made great friends. Lindsey, Kelly and Stephanie (you are my favourites hehe): you are all amazing and I'm so glad we had many bonding sessions playing rummy/wandering through the marais/ sitting along the Seine drinking wine/ sampling uber cheap cocktails made by our favourite sexy barman Pierre.

2)Going for brunch at the L'Entrepot in the 14th with my wonderful (and oh so Parisian ;)) cousin and friends. A great place to go with a hangover, the all inclusive price of 25 euros includes all you can eat and drink coffee, juice, fresh pastries, cheese platters, fried eggs, bacon, salads, fruit and more.

3) Dinner at amazing vietnamese bistro in chinatown (our last meal together girls) and giggles and beer afterwards.

4) Watching the amazing fireworks by Trocadero on Bastille day.



5) Our last night in L'Orange Mecanique with my favourite Americans and one and only Kelly.

6) A goodbye phone call as I was on the way to the eurostar from the lovely twin girls I looked after this year - C & J I will miss you so much and I can't wait till you're all grown up and you can visit me in London!

There are more, but my notebook is playing up (AGAIN!) so I will update when I can.

Bisous xx

Friday, July 15, 2011

La Rochelle

Salut!

I've recently returned from the town of La Rochelle, where I spent a week and a half with the children and grandparents (mainly to help out with the kids but it was kind of a free holiday too). La Rochelle is a harbour town in the South West of Paris, about 2 hours North from Bordeaux. Apparently it's a very popular holiday destination for the English and Germans as well as the French. You'll have to wait to see photos as I've temporarily broken my netbook, but suffice it to say that it was a very attractive spot.

Temperatures were of an average of 30 degrees celsius and it's such a warm place that the grandparents have an outdoor kitchen and dining room complete with a very posh bbq. They made me feel very at home and the food was delicious - my diet whilst there consisted of melons, fresh artichokes, bbq'd sardines and fresh mussels caught that same day (the best I've ever tasted in fact). We also partook in a host of activities such as swimming at the water park, going to the beach, visiting an aquarium and watching a spectacle from the local Francofolies festival which is taking place at the moment.

Saturday night the grandma treated us all to the la Cinéscénie spectacle at nearby medieval attraction park Puy du Fou. I had no idea what it was beforehand - I now know that it is the largest evening show in the world and documents the history of French wars. You sit outside under the night sky (it doesn't start till nightfall due to the reliance on lights and fireworks) and watch as over 1,000 actors and plenty of horses and other animals entertain you with the story of France's fight for freedom. The setting is a large lake behind which is a castle, surrounded by greenery. The infamous Revolution of 1789 was of course a big deal, especially being so close to Bastille day, and there were a lot of fireworks and gunpowder and staged explosions. Amongst other things I witnessed a man on fire riding a horse, beautiful dancers appearing to float on the water, projections across the night sky and hundreds of fireworks. It was truly entertaining, although at times so many things were happening at once before you it was hard to keep up. Very impressive.

La Rochelle is famous for the three towers which make up the maritime fortifications, and it was fought over for many years by the French and the English. It wasn't until 1372 that the town became French. I climbed up these towers and had a great view of the port and the town, I will post photos when I can. I also took a walk around the local food market on Saturday morning which consisted of rows and rows of stalls of fresh and locally sourced fruit, veg, bread, honey and fish. Life is good in France; the people eat well and enjoy all the pleasures in life, and I think it is this appreciation which allows them to do so in moderation.

I have more to update but will write again when I have more time.

Bisous xx

Sunday, June 26, 2011

Marche aux Puces

This post is dedicated to the "Marche aux Puces" at Porte Clignancourt. The flea market is located in the 18th arrondissement on the outskirts of Paris and can be reached by the end stop of metro line 4. The area is notorious for its "working class" vibe (whatever that means, I have never been one to define people and therefore places by class), but it is true that one ought not to go wandering around there at night.



During the day it was pleasant enough, although you still have to wade through the endless array of faux Louis Vuitton sellers and teenagers trying to sell you dodgy metro tickets. I avoided these for the most part with a firm shake of the head and a no-nonsense kind of walk, but I must warn you that there is a bridge beneath which you must pass to get to the market, and it is host to numerous dodgy characters. Keep firm hold of your bag. But being practically a native Parisian nowadays (or so I tell myself) this is nothing new. In fact it's a day to day fact of living in any large city.



The market is huge, and begins with the more tacky kinds of clothes, cheap jewellery and knock-off designer labels. You have to wade through this (although no doubt you could find a nice thing or two here, and prices were very cheap) to get to the better Marche Vernaison, which is home to la brocante (antiques). The variety of things to buy here was astonishing, and the vibe was more relaxed which may have been due to the larger spaces and nonchalant attitude of the antique sellers. To give you some idea of the place, I will tell you that you can find anything from: vintage clothing and vintage copies of Marie Claire and Elle, 19th century original book editions, genuine silvery, expensive crockery, hand-me-down furniture, exquisite paintings, many a birdcage and golden harps (yes, GOLDEN HARPS). Some parts were very serious and I got the impression that only experienced bidders would stand a chance haggling; other stalls were more of a mish mash of various goods, some of it plain awful. I have to apologise for the quality of the photos but most sellers weren't too keen on my taking any and I got told off a few times. I was tempted to buy a gorgeous leather bag but talked myself out of it, the same can be said for little oh so French knick knacks such as vintage sweet tins.


One day I would like to return to one of these Parisian flea markets and find things for my house - I could build up a beautiful collection of useless but terribly chic objects. There are some things there however that I would hesitate to buy even if I could afford it due to their lavish price tag (some things literally cost thousands of euros, and I blanched when I saw a price tag of 400 euros for an old suitcase).

I wouldn't have thought that a flea market would have been a huge attraction for tourists, but plenty of tourists there were and for good reason. If you do go, be sure to get to the good bits and not just the knock off outskirts of the real market.

A bientot xxx

Thursday, June 23, 2011

La Fete de la Musique

Bonsoir,

La Fete de La Musique, an annual event during which free live music is played from various Parisian venues, took place last Tuesday 21st June. The genre of music ranges from classical to electro pop to rock, hip hop, R&B and jazz. Somewhat spoilt for choice (initially we planned to head to Pigalle to see a band intriguingly called "Sexy Cat's Fuckers") we decided to meet at Chatelet and walk to the Marais. On the way we stopped off at Hotel de Ville and got drinks from Anglified yet hip bar The Lizard Lounge (see photo).


As most of the music took place outside (to celebrate the official commencement of summer) we hunted down the Monoprix near Notre Dame in order to save on some money and get cheap drinks. Walking past Notre Dame in a jampacked but jubilant crowd with live music blasting in the background was fun aplenty. The events by the St Michel fountain also proved entertaining, particularly later on in the night when a group of guys (no doubt non-Frenchies) executed the brilliant plan of stripping and jumping in the fountain itself. Due to various reasons we actually only spent a limited amount of time in the Marais which is a shame but it was still fun to spend some time in the crowded streets of Paris at night time. I've never seen so many people out at the same time enoying themselves. Apart from keeping an eye out for a pickpocket (or two) there was no danger or malicious feeling. I may have said it before, but I'll say it again: Paris is an amazing city. I'm totally and irrevocably in love with her.

Wednesday was as always challenging (12 hours with children), even more so with a slightly sore head and minimal sleep but it wasn't too bad. As my French school has now finished - I achieved the grade I was hoping for and am inspired to continue advancing my French until I am completely fluent - I am free during the day. Today I made use of this by hanging out at a friend's in Les Sablons and then going for a swim at Neuilly sur Seine. It struck me as odd that wearing a swim cap is obligatory (as though they want to make you look silly, somehow) but the pool was much more serious than the ones I'm used to, although it's fair to say Warwick Campus is my most recent comparison. By serious I mean there were several lanes dedicated to serious swimming, not just the half a pool I'm used to. After half an hour of dedicated serious swimming, we relaxed in the sunshine in the outdoor pool and gossipped in the jacuzzi.

That's all for now. A bientot xxx

Tuesday, June 21, 2011

Oberkampf Barcrawl

There are certain things you just have to do before leaving Paris, and one of these is to embark on a barcrawl within the Oberkampf district. Rue Oberkampf (so named after the French-German industrialist) is situated in the 11th arrondissement. I adore this area of Paris, which is near Bastille and Place de la Republique. It is one of the most varied, inexpensive (as inexpensive as Paris gets in any case) and buzzing places in the city.

So for my friend's recent birthday, we decided to start off by Belleville and go for a cheap dinner at Vietnamese restaurant Dong Huong at 14, Rue Louis Bonnet. I recommend this place - the meal, a noodle soup complete with beansprouts and beef meatballs, was delicious and very filling and cost less than 8 euros. From here we walked to Rue Oberkampf and began the night's drinking. The great thing about this area is that there are rows and rows of bars on both sides of the street and you can take your pick of them. I don't remember the names of all the places we went to, but I do remember that the infamous Le Chat Noir bar and L'Orange Mecanique (translated as A Clockwork Orange, see photo) were particularly fun and welcoming. We made a lot of new friends and practised a decent amount of French.

Tonight is La Fete de La Musique during which music events (everything from classical to jazz and electronic pop) are held all over the city's 20 arrondissements. I will be checking it out and writing to you soon!

Bonne Journee xxx

Monday, June 13, 2011

Don't forget the Rhinoceros !

Ah Dali, a man of surrealism and genius. A man who has left behind him a vast collection of beauty and ugliness. Personally, I've always been a fan of Salvador Dali and it is artists like him who give Paris some of her artistic and bohemian fame of the 1920s. Although Spanish, Dali found a great inspiration in Paris and lived in Montmartre. It's therefore appropriate that a permanent Dali exhibition can be found in the Place du Tertre behind Sacre Coeur.

When most people think of Dali they think of melting clocks and rhinoceroses (how could you not?!) and although these were also present in this exhibition it was interesting to see many of his original hand sketches for story books he illustrated, which I was previously unaware of. He also had a great interest in literature - greek mythology, Shakespeare and medieval literature to name but a few. Amongst my favourites were his images inspired by Alice in Wonderland from 1969 - the tale of an unknown surrealist world discovered by the eyes of a child was understandably irresistable to his surrealist interests and he used it accordingly. In particular I liked the image of the rabbit hole and the tea party.


His imagery of Romeo and Juliet was also thought-provoking - so often in surrealist art and especially Dali, there are many ways of looking at an image and it is only after gazing at one for a minute or so that you begin to comprehend its many layers, which is how I found this one to be, which is a scene from Romeo and Juliet:
As well as the many sketches, the exhibition contains many of Dali's sculptures (the largest collection in France apparently)and some examples of his furniture designs including the infamous sofa in the shape of Mae West's lips. Mae West was a famous, voluptuous and sexually provocative 1920s actress and therefore naturally somewhat of an obsession of Dali's (always an admirer of the female form).
The actress Mae West

The "Mae West inspired" sofa

The exhibition was certainly worth going to, although it's never going to be free unless you're under 8 years old (it was 6 euros for us, being under 26), and the Montmartre surroundings are as ever pleasant, although not so much now that the Place du Tertre is constantly haunted by throngs of tourists but that seems to be the case all over Paris now that summer is here. We ended the day by proceeding down the steps towards Rue des Abesses and purchasing a baguette from Le Grenier a Pain - home to the best baguette of Paris prize from 2010 and where Sarkozy gets his own personal supply of bread. It was yummy but there are boulangeries in Le Vesinet which make fair rivals! I leave you with this picture, incorporating the image of Dali himself. A bientot xxx

Sunday, June 12, 2011

Paris by Bike

Bonjour,

I'm currently still hiding from the light of day in my room, recovering from last night! Yesterday during the day a friend and I decided to brave the Parisian roads by hiring bikes and seeing the city from a different point of view. We used the Velib - Paris bike hire through which you are free to pick up and drop off your bike (picking up a different one if you choose, although the bikes are all the same and come with adjustable seats). The beauty of the Velib is that it costs one euro 70 for the day (or 19 euros for an annual subscription!) and that there's no hassle of carrying a bike on the train etc. You can pick up and leave your bike as you please.

The catch, and of course there is a catch, is that the first 30 minutes of you unlocking a bike are free, but thereafter it will cost you one euro per half an hour. So it becomes somewhat of a race against time to find the next Velib stand. Fortunately, these stands are frequent and multiple and can be found at all the big tourist spots if you make sure to look down little side streets. Then you lock your bike back in, re-enter your secret code and pick another one up for the next 30 minutes, and so on. Problems occur when bike stands are full and you have to find the nearest one, although paying the extra euro isn't a big deal but can be quite expensive if you lose track of time. Another thing we quickly realised is to check your bike thoroughly before you unlock it - for the most part the bikes were in impressively good condition but some stands (in particular by the Jardin des Plantes) were full of rubbish bikes. Lesson learnt!

Travelling on Paris' main roads was frightening but after a short time it was fun, and we even survived Rue de Rivoli at rush hour. The feeling of cycling along the Seine with the Eiffel Tower and Paris' beautiful bridges to our right, avoiding the crowded pavements and passing traffic jams was exhilirating and we couldn't help feeling oh so smug and city.

We made sure to plan a rough route of where we wanted to go beforehand, starting at Ecole Militaire and winding up at Chatelet. We passed and stopped off at the Les Invalides, Pont Alexandre III, the Louvre, Notre Dame, the Jardin des Plantes (on the way finding enchanting little markets we would normally miss by metro), the Mosquee de Paris and Hotel de Ville. Chatelet wasn't such a great place to bike ride in - my advice would be to stick to the South of the river.

After a long day, we proceeded to go back to my friend's place in Les Sablons and drink a lovely bottle of Muscat and have dinner, before heading back to the Marais to go for drinks in a bar called Stolly's. The bar was simple enough but the company was as always perfect and it was a fun night. I've come to realise that I really enjoy the night life of Parisian bars - they normally stay open to about 5am and the atmosphere is usually chatty, friendly and buzzing.

The Velib was a great experience and if you're visiting the city I insist you give it a go - anyone can buy the one day or seven day ticket at the many Velib stands you will easily find. It's so much more fun than the dirty, smelly, overcrowded metro during the summer!

A bientot xxx

Wednesday, June 8, 2011

Le Chateau de Versailles

Bonsoir a tous,


My French diploma exam is tomorrow, and so I really ought to be revising, but somehow I am as ever an expert at procrastination and will therefore write a little bit about my recent visit to Versailles.
Versailles is a town in the South West of Paris, a 45 minute train journey from Saint Lazare station. The train ride was free thanks to my navigo pass. Entrance to the castle was also free (to EU members under 26!) although the 6 euro entrance fee to the gardens was inevitable but completely worth it. Have you ever heard of Versailles? It's famous as one of French royalty's most exhibitionist indulgences in grandeur and luxury.

It is the castle that the much despised and notoriously greedy "sun-king" (so called for his love of all things shiny and bright, as well as his own love of the divine right of kings) Louis XIV had built. It is also the location of perhaps the most important event of the French revolution of the 18th century: it is where King Louis XVI and his wife Marie-Antoinette were hunted down by their own infuriated subjects. Always one for a love of all things history-related, this story fascinates me. And Marie-Antoinette is a main selling point of the castle - her image can be found more than any other in the caste's many gift shops.

The castle has been host to many French Kings and Queens and is as can be expected dripping in exquisite detail and gold furnishing (the man to the left is only one detail of a chimney decoration). The hall of mirrors is always fun to walk down, and the lavish displays of ceremony as well as rooms for play and luxury (mostly linked to Marie-Antoinette) are interesting to say the least. It is of course painfully ironic when compared to the famine and debt France was suffering from at the time. Marie-Antoinette (I know you're dying to hear about her, wasn't she fabulous, with her youth and her beauty and her fancy things?) left her mark on the place by establishing what is now known as her "domain" within the extremely large gardens.

This domain is almost hidden away about a 20 minute walk away from the Grand Lake and is comprised of what is known as a Hamlet (smaller than a village, but only just). The King gave the building known as "Le Petit Trianon" to her as a gift. There's no doubt that Le Petit Trianon is a luxurious building, and it's said to be Marie's favourite place. The gardens around it are also pretty nifty (see photo) I also liked that Le Petit Trianon had simply furnished (albeit undoubtedly expensive) spare bedrooms and a billiard room.

Being not overly keen on gardens (they're alright I suppose, but you know, a garden is a garden) I wasn't expecting much from the Jardins de Versailles and was a bit annoyed at having to pay the 6 euros to get in. But they were exquisite, and it was a beautiful day (30 degrees celsius!) and it was easy to imagine the sorts of courting that would have gone on back in the day. It was all very Mark Darcy ish, if you know what I mean. Also, for the high season of summer only, the fountains of the jardin de versailles harmoniously play classical music, of the kind designed to encourage your gaiety and make you feel like you are a lady of the court partaking in her daily walk back in the 18th century, pondering what you will be wearing to the ball this evening. Maybe this is where the idea of Mark Darcy popped into my head. The photo doesn't do them any justice - there were grand gravel paths, meticulously arranged greenery, small and big lakes, fountains, mazes and the fabulously large Grand Lake where you could hire a rowing boat which I imagine to be ridiculously expensive but very idyllic. If you visit Versailles, taking a peek at the gardens is a must.

I have other things to tell you about things that I've done recently, but really have to go do some last minute revision now, donc je vous ecrirai bientot!

Bonne Nuit xx

Friday, June 3, 2011

Giverny

Ah, the joy of bank holidays! I know most of you in England would have enjoyed last Monday off, but thanks to the French system I have both yesterday and today off.


We made the most of yesterday's bank holiday by travelling to Giverny, the location of Claude Monet's house and famous water lily gardens. Giverny is a small town in the South-West of Paris, about an hour's train ride and 15 minute bus ride from Paris' Saint Lazare station. The train journey cost only 20 euros, and the entry to La Maison de Monet was 6 euros (student prices). Luckily, and somewhat bizarrely, temperatures here are already at an average of about 28 degrees celsius so it felt like high summer, and the picturesque gardens and village reminded me of Southern France.


The house itself was very idyllic - Monet lived there from 1883 to 1926, and as a man with an intense eye for detail and beauty, the gardens adjacent to the house are beautiful almost to a fault. The many rose bushes and array of flowers reminded me of Alice's adventures in the garden in Lewis Carroll's "Through the looking-glass". Pictures inside the house were forbidden, but the tour takes you (amongst other things) through Monet's collection of Japanese engravings, his bedrooms, the cheerfully yellow dining room, and his atelier of paintings which, although adding a funny smell to the room, were varied, often breathtaking and interestingly dynamic.


The ever so famous Japanese bridge can be found in the Water Lily Gardens, which are about a 5 minute walk away from the house. These gardens, even when hounded by multiple tourists, are peaceful and one feels far away from city life or troubles - it is easy to see how the place could have given Monet both the inspiration and space for contemplation he undoubtedly used for many of his paintings. The Japanese bridge, which the garden is so famous for, loses most of its magic by the sheer multitude of people that seem to be standing on it at all times posing for photos, but is nonetheless pleasing to the eye. After taking this tour of the house and gardens, we decided to explore the village of Giverny.

It was a very short exploration due to the miniscule size of the village's centre, which consisted of a narrow and long-winding road with small cafes and museums on either side. For such a small village in the countryside, it must be very odd to receive hundreds of visitors on a daily basis. Claude Monet's grave is located 10 minute's away from the house in the village's church graveyard.


The train ride back was admittedly tiring and weary - the train was crammed full and we were forced to stand for the duration of the journey. We dealt with this by giggling uncontrollably and annoying everyone around us (a very satisfying way of spending the time).

I'm off to enjoy the rest of my freedom until Monday, a bientot xxx

Monday, May 30, 2011

How to get Something for Nothing

Welcome to what I can assume is my last post of the month! I technically only have one month left here, but will be staying a little longer as Paris has proven too seductive for me to leave her just yet.

Due to working a lot recently, I've been feeling tired, but the weekend I've just had has left a huge smile on my face. I'm very, very poor at the moment but the things we did hardly cost me anything (they would have been completely free were it not for the need of alcohol and food). We had a picnic (with wine and beer, bien sur) by St Martin's Canal yesterday and the weather was beautiful and the company was brilliant. We couldn't have asked for anything more. But more we did get: we walked from the canal in the 19th arrondissement (the canal is home to many bar boats and there are always many people and activities at this time of year) to the Parc de la Villette, to enjoy the free music there held as part of the "Villette Sonique", which lasts until the 1st June. Parc de la Villette is full of post-modernist architecture and is home to the Parisian iMax (seen as a big bubble in the photo below). It was designed and built in the 1980s as an open space to be used for art, exhibitions, music and other such engaging activities.


I'm not going to lie to you - the music was atrocious (it consisted of angry yelling and mismatched instrumentals, all deemed to convey some sort of message of what I can only assume was teenage angst, although the singer seemed to be in his 50s), but it was free, and the atmosphere was energetic, cheerful and 100% summer. Pure bliss. Drink prices also weren't too unreasonable, the usual 5 euros per pint (you think that's alot? For Paris it really is the norm, another reason I'm looking forward to being home).

Today after a shockingly difficult French lesson - my diploma exam is next week - I happily went along to a current exhibition at the Pompidou centre. The exhibition, entitled the "Inside Out" project, consists of a huge photo booth which after taking your picture spits it out from a great height in a terrifyingly large black and white image of yourself. Every pore becomes visible and as such open to criticism. The idea of the project is much less vain, and encourages you to take the poster and, having put it up in a place of importance/significance to you, to take a photo and send it to them so that they might construct a definition of identity. Or so I understood in any case. My picture is indeed terrifying and I will be doing nothing of the sort but it's a good souvenir and in theory the project could work. The entire project had an Indian theme (the image places a Bindi in the middle of your forehead), although it was not made clear why, and neither is it particularly obvious on the website. It didn't cost a penny, however.


That's it for now. Bonne Soiree xxx

Friday, May 20, 2011

Midnight in Paris

Ah, Paris - an inspirational city for many, and in particular Woody Allen it would seem. I went to see his new film, a hit in the recent Cannes film festival, fully expecting to love it (due to my love of Paris, not Allen). And love it I did. It was of course un petit peu previsible (predictable) but the shots of Paris were breathtaking and Owen Wilson did well as the inspired writer who loses his way and is tied down by a witch of a fiance (Rachel McAdams) and eventually refinds his mojo in the arms of the city (and her many beautiful women). The story is like I said: predictable, but oh so delicious. Against all odds Wilson finds himself in Paris in the Roaring Twenties, surrounded by the likes of Scott Fitzgerald, Ernest Hemingway, Salvador Dali and Gertrude Stein, to name but a few. It is in short, any young writer's dream.

Although sold as a romcom, it is refreshing to see that McAdams and Wilson make an appallingly ill-suited couple and all is not well in the land of the spoilt and wealthy. Wilson's interest in other women is a factor of the film but not it's main focus - that is centred on Paris of course. Allen succeeds in many a name-dropping (Wilson's love rival teaches at the Sorbonne, they go drinking in Montmartre, Hemingway is found staring down the nose of a red wine bottle at all times) which made it fun for us as we are now well-acquainted with many of the city's hotspots. If you're reading this, go and watch the film! You will see why I'm here, and maybe even be inspired to come here yourself.

My only criticism is as follows: I've yet to walk through the streets of Paris after midnight and encounter anyone other than drunken people or bums, never mind Dali or Hemingway. Maybe I'm just not doing it right...?

Bisous xxx

Europe's Oldest Science Museum... Just Too Old?

I recently visited the Arts et Metiers (Arts and Trades) museum in the 3rd arrondissement. As Europe's oldest science museum, it had quite an appeal! Having now been, I have to admit that it was certainly old, although I think this was more of a fault than an advantage. I think around 3,000 objects are on display, ranging from scientific instruments and construction to energy and transportation. Don't get me wrong, the objects themselves as individuals were for the most part rather interesting, but to force them together in an organised jumble in large rooms killed any inspiration they may have given. Have you ever been to the Natural History Museum in London, or the Science Museum? There you can interact with fascinating objects, and come face to face with dinosaurs (call me shallow but the dinosaurs were definitely missing here). I wish we could have interacted with something in this museum, apparently it was renovated in the year 2000 but they must have missed the memo!

As you can see however, the stop is interesting and demands attention when passing through on the metro. Luckily, the museum was once again free for those aged under 26 (there's no point staying in Paris once you've reach the ripened old age of 26 I'm afraid, everything will cost you a fortune). Upon first entering, we appeared to be the only ones there which I suppose was due to it being a weekday and the time of day. Not much later, we were bombarded by huge groups of school children and decided to scarper, so maybe I missed something - like the interesting parts? I fear my evaluation of the Arts et Metiers may be overly harsh, so I will tell you that you can find a scale model of the Statue of Liberty and many curious objects such as early models of typewriters, carriages and planes.

I suppose there's no harm in taking a look around if you're in the area, just be aware that you'll be hard pressed to make a day of it! I'll be heading to the Dali museum in the near future and will hopefully be able to give an altogether more rose-tinted account of that.

A bientot xxx

Tuesday, May 17, 2011

An emotional post that has absolutely nothing to do with Paris

Sometimes, there are moments in life when things happen that you can't control, or that you just don't want to believe. When these things happen (and they are inevitable), the way you react to them can define who you are. Now, I know I'm only 23 but that's long enough in this world to realise that. I'd also like to reassure you that it's nothing major that has happened to me, that myself and those I love are fine, my host family is still lovely and I'm still loving Paris, and I'm very lucky to have all that. I won't go into detail on what it is that's happened as this is after all a website which anyone can read, but suffice it to say that things are changing and for once I don't really feel in control anymore.

My day to day life here is focused a lot on responsibility - I'm in charge of two small beings who depend on me, and it can be emotional. Working with children is draining. I know I'm a good au pair, I praise them often, push them hard into being the best they can be, make sure they've got everything they need when they're in my care, support them, help them learn and interact with them during games and sports and playtime. And over my time here I've come to really care for those kids and I wish them the best in life.

So I'm sad that it's all coming to an end soon (but whoever said that an ending was a new beginning in disguise was a wiseman indeed), although I know the next phase of my life is beginning and is exciting. I'm sad that the genuine, be-there-for-you-no-matter-what friends I have made are going to be my penpals for the foreseeable future (although I AM roadtripping through California somewhere in that future). And now I'm sad because of the mysterious (to you, in any case) thing that has happened. I feel sad and drained and even slightly unable to cope. Then I remember who I am - I'm Nathalie Jane Flaxington, I can cope with anything, right? Right. Just now it doesn't feel that way.

I have to remind myself that these things are inevitable, and that it isn't the end of the world. I'll let you in on a little secret - when the Spicegirls split up, I was so upset my parents were worried about my mental state to the extent that they bought me a pet hamster in the hope that its gain would aid in my loss of Ginger. I may only have been 10 years old, and a pet hamster may not make things better this time, but they will get better.

Over and out xxx

Sunday, May 15, 2011

Stuck on where to go?

If you're looking for somewhere nice in Paris to enjoy a fancy cocktail or two, there are an abundance of places dying to take your money. However, knowing a good place from a bad one and parting with your money only for real quality and atmosphere can be tough. The 6th arrondissment boasts home to famous pioneers of Left Bank society and history through places such as Cafe de Flore. The trendy and overpriced (but delightfully Parisian) cafe is open and as such busy at all times of day and night. They do a splendid champagne house cocktail, but you will certainly be paying dearly for the honour of perching your derriere where the likes of Simone de Beauvoir once sat.

If on the other hand you'd like somewhere a bit more low key and less in your face touristy, there is a cocktail bar a 2 minute walk away from the Jardin du Luxembourg that goes by the name of Le Crocodile. Here you will find a choice of 312 cocktails, each of which can be bought for the reasonable sum of 6 euros during Happy Hour. I would recommend the Don de Ciel (literally translated as a "godsend"), which is once again champagne based. Trendy places such as the Panic Room in the Marais, and believe it or not the Irish bar named Hideout located by Chatelet, offer welcoming atmospheres and drinks at reasonable prices.

Speaking of things to do in Paris, if you'd like to spend a night at the cinema but don't fancy paying the 9 euro something fee per film, the cinema Gaumont Gobelins in the 13th arrondissement is a tempting 4 euros for those aged under 26.

There you have it, my helpful array of tips is on halt until the next time! I hope you've all had a wonderful weekend.

Bonne Nuit xxx

Monday, May 9, 2011

Bois de Boulogne

Salut,

I've had another great weekend in Paris; despite working most of the Saturday I managed to get out in time for evening drinks under the Pont des Arts bridge by Louvre Rivoli, meeting a host of other au pairs from various countries. It was nice to use my English and German (in which I am equally fluent) and French (in which I still struggle but for the most part am able to hold decent conversation, and the gin helped), it made for a very multi-cultural crowd. It was amazing that there were so many people, hundreds even, sat all along the Seine on a Saturday night drinking and chatting and that the atmosphere was so warm and welcoming. Sure, there was the odd drunken beggar trying his luck for free cigarrettes and beer but they were harmless.

Sunday I ventured to the Bois de Boulogne for the first time. The huge park is in the 16th arrondissement and we made it our mission to find the Lac Inferieur for some boat-rowing in the sunshine. I underestimated exactly how large the "park" is; it contains multiple lakes and even an amusement park which goes by the name of Jardin d'Acclimatation. The park technically spreads out onto the outskirts of Paris, which should give you an idea of its size, and is even home to the famous racecourse Longchamp from which the French designer bag label takes its name.


It all looks very idyllic, doesn't it? It feels it too, when walking along sandy paths surrounded by tall trees and enveloped by families on bike rides and general days out. But don't be fooled: apparently the park is home to one of the largest areas of prostitution in Paris, and it's actually not too hard to see why. It is large enough to permit people to go undetected within its many forests and there are no gates to close it at night.

As we began our trek back (we must have walked a total of hours throughout the day, but it was worth it) it was starting to get later and we noticed a distinct increase of lone men walking around which seemed odd until the knowledge of the park's notoriety clicked in. There are also unexplained markings on seemingly random trees. So there you have it, two sides of the same coin or however you want to put it, the park incorporates an amusing distinction between night and day. The rowing itself was fun aplenty, although I did manage to look like a complete idiot attempting not to crash into trees and such things, but very fun nonetheless. It cost 10 euros for the hour, and afterwards we sat on the grass in the sunshine enjoying well deserved beers and ice creams.

If I haven't said it before, this is the life!

A bientot xxx

Sunday, May 1, 2011

Centre Pompidou

Just a quick note on what I have decided is my favourite museum in Paris so far. The Centre Georges Pompidou is a museum of modern art in all shapes and forms (architecture, design, cinema etc) and as such offers a wide variety of art. There are often exhibitions but the museum itself is free for under 26s so I stuck to that part, which occupies two floors of the centre.

The first floor is comprised of art from 1905 to the sixties and is accordingly home to more traditional aspects of art, as well as cubism and surrealism and artists such as Picasso. A favourite of mine was this 1927 painting by Christian Schad, which presents a male with his companions of the night, including a famous transvestite, on a Montmartre background.
It's then quite refreshing to look around the second floor, which spans from 1960 to the present day and includes Andy Warhol's gorgeous photography of the legend that is Elizabeth Taylor.

Unlike many museums which tend to be a bit stuffy and offer an often mundane selection of similar paintings hung on similar-looking walls, the Centre Pompidou keeps you guessing, offering a variety of bizarre looking objects. Although not everything in the Pompidou was by any means pleasing or exciting, many things were and it was fun to walk around. It also helped that we were quite high up and that the glass walls offered fantastic views of Paris around us. Confused by what I mean by bizarre looking objects? Well there was...

A strange, Alice in Wonderland-esque mushroom.

Dizzy-inspiring paintings: if you look at it for long enough your eyes begin to go cross-eyed.

<---- I'm lost for words on this one.

Thusly you can see that many objects are odd (and maybe even slightly infantile?) but nonetheless amusing and at times thought-provoking. The museum is located in the marais quarter not far from the Hotel de Ville. The large square in front of the museum, the place du pompidou, is filled with street entertainers, tourists and local Frenchies enjoying the sunshine. Voila, perfect for an entertaining and cost-free few hours to spend in Paris, followed by a walk to Rue de Rosiers for a falafel and maybe a cheeky drink or two at La Perle. Bonne Nuit xxx

A small observation on how to (not) get ripped off in Paris.

Bonsoir,

Yesterday I had the oppportunity of showing next year's potential au pair around (who happens to be a friend of mine from England) in Le Vesinet with my host family, and taking her to Paris in the evening. Faced with a wide choice of where to go and somewhat short on time, I opted for the Place du Tertre which boasts a fabulous view of the Sacre Coeur and is a main bustling square of Montmartre, complete with creperies, restaurants, bars, shops and wandering artists. The museum of Salvador Dali is a mere few steps away from the Place du Tertre but unfortunately for me is closed until 2012 due to refurbishment... but I digress.

My friend was surprised at the hilly landscape of Montmartre and the many steps we took to get there, but this after all is its beauty and the view over Paris is like no other. We partook in some vin rouge at one bar, then meeting my Parisian friends at a bar right in the middle of the Place du Tertre. I can't remember the name of it but I can tell you NEVER to go there. Sure, the view was nice, the waiters were dressed in cheesy Parisian attire complete with berets and there was live music, but the bill added a bittersweet edge to the evening. I tried a Kir for the first time, and it was delicious (a Kir is a French cocktail consisting of creme de cassis, otherwise known as blackcurrant liqueur, topped up with white wine), but it cost me a pretty penny. It was 10 euros. And the beers my friends ordered cost the same. The bill came up to a total of over 40 euros for the 4 of us for one run of the mill (it wasn't champagne!) drink each. Oddly enough, the week before I had eaten at the Place du Tertre at a restaurant called Chez Eugene, and the prices there were reasonable, about 12 euros per meal. My advice: ALWAYS ask for the menu (la carte) before ordering.

Nonetheless it was a lovely relaxed evening, and Sacre Coeur is beautiful at night as you can see for yourself, although at a certain time of night a host of drunken idiots appear spluttering words like "charmant, les filles!" at you whilst holding broken and almost-empty bottles of whisky. Mais alors, c'est Paris!

A bientot xxx

Monday, April 25, 2011

Les Paques a Paris

Bonjour,


First of all, Happy Easter! I've just survived several small children running around looking for and then consuming large amounts of chocolate. Small French children, I should probably add. In France they believe that "les cloches de Paques" (the bells of Easter) bring the chocolate, which is strange as both in Germany and England we have the Osterhase/Easter Bunny. Thanks to the wonders of Easter, many patisseries have been filled with delightful looking treats, in all shapes and sizes. Most popular are hens, eggs, bells and rabbits although almost anything is possible and is accordingly available. The prices are pretty steep - 40 euros per item seems to be about average. A favourite of mine was the French frog as seen in the photo. This particular patisserie at which these photos were taken can be found by the Hotel de Ville and is called Maison Georges Larnicol. I can't account for the taste but it did all look fabulous.

It's no surprise that France, especially Paris, is home to a delicious array of pastries and chocolatiers. I'm sure you could find these things in London, but it would be hard to find and overpriced, and you'd be lucky if they tasted as good as they do here. Laduree is the famous maison de la patisserie which claims to have invented the macaroon. I think if I had to choose, the macaroon would be my favourite French sweet thing, although the pain au chocolats fall closely in second place. Macaroons are crisp on the outside and beautifully soft on the inside. Their flavours range from vanilla and pistachio to rose petal (my personal favourite). I can only think that French women stay so thin thanks to the appreciation of such treats in very small, very rare doses. To give you a taste (so to speak) here's a photo of the average patisserie window display:

Bon appetit, enjoy the Easter chocolate! xxx

Sunday, April 24, 2011

Napoleon's City

As most of you will know, the weather has been pretty amazing. It's felt more like summer than spring, with clear blue skies and limitless sunshine. To make the most of this, we've been spending a lot of time at some of Paris most beautiful parks recently. I think my favourite Parisian park at the moment has to be the Buttes Chaumont. In the 19th arrondissement, it's absolutely massive and was initially a lime quarry until Napoleon came along and rearranged things. There is a large lake, a suspension bridge, large and small hills, a high pillar from which you can see Paris, and waterfalls. As most of the tourists tend to stay at well-known Parisian parks such as the Jardin du Luxembourg, the Buttes Chaumont is mainly filled with local young Frenchies indulging in beer and wine whilst lounging in the sunshine, and local families on days out.

There is a rather famous popular restuarant/bar called Rosa Bonheur which is actually in the park itself, I haven't been there yet (due to the ridiculously long queues) but maybe soon. The park is a beautiful (and at times physically exerting) place to spend a sunny Saturday afternoon. We drank pimms on the grass in the sunshine, being oh so English in the midst of Paris.










Speaking of Napoleon and his alterations to Paris... we climbed the Arc de Triomphe today. It being Easter Sunday, we were worried the queues would be too long but it wasn't a problem. We also managed to dodge the 9.50 euro entry fee due to being part of the EU and under 26 (I love this about Paris). Initially I was somewhat dubious about climbing it, but the view was spectacular. I would almost say it was better than being on the Eiffel Tower. Just to give you a taste, here is a picture of the view of the Champs Elysees from the top.








I realise that this is a longer post than usual, but before I go I have to tell you about the big man's (or little man's?) final resting place. The tomb of Napoleon is situated inside the golden-topped Les Invalides in the 7th arrondissment. It's an impressive church which is attached to the Musee de l'armee. Although Napoleon is quoted to have said "Je desire que mes cenres reposent sur les bords de la seine au milieu de ce peuple francais que j'ai tant aime." (I wish my ashes to be scattered on the banks of the Seine in the midst of the French people that I love so much) his tomb is inside Les Invalides which is a bit odd to say the least. Always one for ceremony however, Napoleon's tomb is extravagant, set in its own room to which access is given down cold stone steps, surrounded by equally cold intimidating statues.



Thats all for now, bonne nuit xxx